Panorama Route is for Wandering
Driving down Long Tom pass towards Sabie, overlooking pine and eucalyptus plantations my mind wanders. Wanders towards the history of this place. The beauty of this place. I cannot help but to wish instead of beautiful little towns, I was on horse back, riding towards the multiple waterfalls and breathtaking views of the escarpment, untouched by human intervention. Just me with nature, our pure and perfect mother.
But us humans did intervene. The Long Tom pass is named after the Creusot long tom field guns used in wars long gone. The rocks containing hints of the boulders fired at enemies. The plantations, beautifully green, but man made. The towns, mostly started due to the greed of gold. Driving further down, I appreciate that the beauty has been kept. I might have to share waterfalls and views with other people, but I can experience it.
I drove to the paypoint at Pinnacle – a 30m high quartzite column standing tall above the trees – with fog so dense I have about 10m of visibility in front of me. ‘I am not going to see anything?’, I asked the lady working in the paypoint. ‘No,’ she responded and quickly added, ‘but you will be able to see the potholes.’. Knowing the lowveld sun will soon be out to chase away the mist. I set off northwards along the Drakensberg escarpment passing the aptly named God’s Window view point. To the east is the lowveld, and to the west the highveld. Parted by the escarpment, a drop in altitude of around 1000m. The view over the lowveld is covered by mist, but towards the left is beautiful views as mountains and plantations flirt with each other. Soon I reach Bourke’s Luck potholes. I have been here before and saved the best views to savour last. I wanted to enjoy the beauty of the surrounding area. The gentle Treur river flowing into a pool at the top of the potholes, surrounded by flat rocks. A great place to sit and listen to the water tumbling down before joining the Blyde River.


So my mind wanders again. In 1844 an expedition party left towards Delagoa Bay (Maputo) and the women stayed at the river. Days and weeks past but nobody returned. They packed their belongings and named the river Treur (mourn). They started walking but soon the men returned and they named the river where they met, Blyde (happy). I walk over the bridges that transcend the potholes. I am always amazed by the size of the cylindrical holes, created by thousand of years of water swirling around at the confluence of the two rivers. I stop to flick a coin into the depths below and make a wish. My coin drops into the water and settle on the bottom next to thousand others . How many wishes has been granted by the potholes? Back on the road the sun is is getting hot and the mist is starting to disappear and reveal the wonderful views. I stop at the Three Rondavels, massive peaks – looking like traditional rondavels – rising over 700m above their surrounds.


The Blyde dam flows through the impressive Blyde River Canyon, with view points along the route to leave you standing in awe. It curves its way around the peaks and into the Blade River dam. Do not miss out on a boat trip around the dam to get spectacular views of the Three Rondavels and the Kadishi Tufa Waterfall – the weeping face of nature. I do find my way back to Pinnacle – the fog is gone and the view is perfect. I share the place with no one. I stand and enjoy the artistry of mother nature.

Reality strikes as people arrive I am happy to share this beauty with them before I start chasing waterfalls. But first some lunch. I head to Sabie Brewing Company to taste their wares. The friendly staff offer me the tasting plate. The beers are delicious and their names are inspired by the area, such as Long Tom Lager, Shangaan Stout and Cockney Liz. The cheese platter did not let me down. The panorama route has many spectacular things to see, but for me the best is the abundance of waterfalls. From the very tall Lisbon (94m) and Berlin falls(80m) to the widest, Forest Falls. The Sabie falls inside the town of Sabie. Yes, really. The famous Mac-Mac falls and the tranquil Mac-Mac pools, where you have to stop for a picnic or braai (it was my plan – until that cheese platter).

Horseshoe falls, Maria Shire falls, Lone Creek falls and then my favourite: Bridal Veil falls. It sums up the panorama route perfectly, the journey is beautiful, but the destination leave you transfixed. From the car park you hike 750m through indigenous rainforest, only getting a glimpse of the fall early in the short hike. The sounds of the falls is your companion as you wind your way closer. Until the forest opens up and the falls as fragile as a bridal veil drops 70m into a pool. And then I realise as the water drops over the edge, even with human interference, the panorama route is the perfect place to regenerate your soul.
