You can hear the distant train approaching to make a stop on the way to the diamond fields in Kimberley. You can see the dust kicked up by thousands of British troops training for the Boer War. You can feel the nerves of the batsman waiting for the bowler to deliver the ball. All this happened in a small town in the central Karoo, Matjiesfontein. It might have happened in a different time, but the magic here will transport you back as you walk among the Victorian buildings.

I have known about Matjiesfontein for a long time. I have driven past it on the N1 multiple times. Yet, I never took the turnoff to explore. This time I decided, no matter what, I will stay over in the town where time stands still. I also did not know much about Matjiesfontein, except the most important thing, stay at The Lord Milner hotel.

The Lord Milner – saying it without the hotel part gives it a certain personification I like, because this place is so full of character it almost feels alive (it might just be because of the ghosts). It is the most prominent building in a town that appeared almost out of thin air. You see most towns in this area started because of water or a church. Not Matjiesfontein. Matjiesfontein was started by the entrepreneurial brilliance of James Logan. He knew the important role the railroad would play and bought land where the railway lined passed through. Within two years he built an entire town. An oasis in the middle of the Karoo. James Logan was full of ideas to promote his town. He invited the English cricket team to play a friendly match in Matjiesfontein on their first tour to South Africa. He promoted it as a health spa and a couple of famous people enjoyed the clean air of the Karoo. During the Boer War he gave Matjiesfontein over to the service of queen and country. This feat earned him an invitation to the coronation of King Edward the 7th. Not bad for a Scotsman who left his home country without a penny in his pocket.

For the true magic to come alive, hop onto the red bus tour. It only lasts 10 minutes, but during that time you will be entertained by Johnnie, a local legend. You pass by all the important buildings (not that there are many), such as the Post Office, the station, the house of James Logan – the first to have electricity, flush toilet and a telephone in South Africa. The tour is filled with fun little historical facts, lots of jokes and a couple of ghosts – be sure to see the photos. The tour ends at the local pub (my kind of tour), The Laird’s Arms where Johnnie will showcase his talent behind the piano. Soon it felt like I was in a different place, a different time. The outside world doesn’t exist here. Time doesn’t exist here. Not for me, not for the ghosts.

Dinner is always a great way to distract yourself from ghostly thoughts and the Lord Milner’s restaurant is top class. It is not often the butternut and vanilla puree will steal the show next to a springbok loin on my plate, but it did. I retreated to my balcony, overlooking the railway line, the notes from the piano drifting up to my ears as the Karoo sunset dressed the town in spectacular colours. I came here mostly to see a town stuck in the Victorian era. The history of this place and James Logan fascinated me to no end. My thoughts travel back to James Logan. He created a town, but what he didn’t realise at the time, he not only created a town, but he conjured up a piece of magic disguised as Matjiesfontein.